The Scion is being.................WALLED!!!!!!!!!

Well I finally have a second BTL, all the material, and time for the new build. Only thing left is hard work, recone, carpet, swear words, drilling, glueing, screwing, taking breaks, eating and all that good stuff. This is my second build thread, I first started with 2 sound stream 10s, then 1 Fi Q 15, the 2 Fi Q 15s, then a DD M3a wich was life changing due to going from 600 to 2500 watts, thanks bassballer for the amp, then I got the btl 18, reconed it, built the box for that. Now its for sale. So for this build I finally get to do a real wall and actually finish it. So I have 2 runs of positive (please tell me if I should change it to 1 + and 1 - run cause I don know) all my RCAs, the door panels, and head unit. I still need a few odds and ends. But for the most part im all wired up. I would like to say thanks to Ben BAaudio for a few ring terminals and a fuse holder. So heres a list of whats going into the car.

2 fi BTL 18s with psi recones
2 yellow tops and 2 red tops 1 stock under the hood
big 3
2 runs of 0
DD M3a at .5 ohm daily
sound stream rubicon 600.4 each channel at 2 ohms.
Random speakers in the doors, 2 JLs and 2 Polks and the stock pioneer speakers are still in, until they blow.
Wall with areo ports tuned to 28-32hz, ill figure out what it is when its done, but its around there.
Stinger volt gauge
my pioneer deck. Idk what it is but its good.
wires consist of Xs power, welding wire, knukonceptz, stinger, scorpion, and street wires.
rcas are 2 Knukonceptz and 1 scorpin I think.

I still want a 5k+ amp and a High output alt once one is made for my car.

Also I have a few videos from the single 18 in the car off 2 extra batts and 1 ohm. sub up ports up, tuned to 32hz
https://www.youtube.com/accordwithbass

Anyway, onto pictures.























false floor, I had to knock out some metal thing that stuck up like a foot to make it sit flat without tipping anyway. See the empty picture for the light spot in the middle from removed piece. This is all I have so far. I have a bunch of scrap MDF, so I only needed 3 sheets, instead of 5.

Nice!!! Looking forward to this. DEMOS!!!!

Looks good. What kind of volume are you looking at?

damn going to wall it now? this will be loud. I cant wait till your done with it.

Emery, 15.3-15.6ish cubes before subs. I might add a 45 at the bottom back of the box before the ports.

basshead, yup Im finally doing a wall, a REAL one. Not like my honda half wall. I worked more today, and still have 2.5 sheets of wood left. Tho I need to fiberglass the top piece in because it was impossible to get glue between the pieces. So now onto the updates. I got the floor cut out, the 1/2' bolts through the back of the car, 2 on each side running through the false floor and 2x4, built a battery box open ends to fit 5 batts, I have 4 now (1 my friend is using) I drilled out notches on the underside of the batt box so it would fit over the bolts.
I got the sides glued and screwed and the top just screwed (needs fiberglass matt to strengthen and seal) This is all I did today with the help of my girlfriends brother. It was quite a bit in my opionion. Baffle will be started tomorrow and hopefully installed. Now onto pictures.























I still need to put some bracing on the sides

lol is there going to be anyone next season not running a wall? Keep it up man and dont skimp on that box bracing haha

I won't. I have a double baffle glued and screwed, just waiting for it to dry so I can cut circles. Then I'm doubling the back and adding extra to the sides. There are 2 things I'm unsure about still. 1 what should I use to hold the subs in the wall? Just course dry wall screws? Or Tnuts. And 2 how should I brace the box? Glue screw and fiberglass a 2x4 from front to back? Threaded rod? Or just add more to the baffle? I can put a 2x4 from left to right behind the baffle. Would that work?

anything sturdy will work, doesn't matter what it's made of, just as long as it will hold up to some abuse.

Progress is great! Why not go further forward?

I have the baffle cut, out, Test fitted it, a few edges don't line up flush but im using a mini circular saw to cut so whatever. I have it predrilled and I just need to countersink and install. Then I need to fiberglass the inside corners and edges. Once that is finished I can put the back on. and Screw on all my bracing. But the best news of this update is JUST ORDERED THE RECONE AND PORTS!!! But I owe my girlfriend like $100 now. haha

Looking good man. Hopefully you can make it to a couple more shows next season. I'm excited to see this done, BTLs are no joke!

mrd6 wrote:lol is there going to be anyone next season not running a wall? Keep it up man and dont skimp on that box bracing haha

right here. il never run a wall lol

I predict VERY loud!

Great start!

Update.







I need to flush mount the M3a and im putting 2 6x9s on each side of it, could I run speaker wire through a switch? I have the second 4 channel amp and its going to be powering my rear doors and the 6x9s and maybe some other speakers, but do you think I could put a switch on the positive wire from the amp so that I can turn off and on the rear speakers even tho the amp will play other speakers. Like a break in the circut?

Flush mounted, also found out my soundstream has 1 bad channel so I have 2 3 channels.

Nice work so far man... I'm pretty sure you can put like a relay or something on the positive side of the speaker wire. I know the old Orion amps used to recommend a fuse on their speaker wires

Get some carpet on that wood! Looks nice. Figure out any plans to prevent all the rattles this is making?

scionwithbass wrote:

I need to flush mount the M3a and im putting 2 6x9s on each side of it, could I run speaker wire through a switch? I have the second 4 channel amp and its going to be powering my rear doors and the 6x9s and maybe some other speakers, but do you think I could put a switch on the positive wire from the amp so that I can turn off and on the rear speakers even tho the amp will play other speakers. Like a break in the circut?

For the switch man it should work.. Remeber all it is, is a line break.. Remember all it does is cut the speaker wire then re-connect it. So you should add it if thats what you want you shouldnt have any issues ...